What do you recommend for a brown spot under my eye?

We, at MDSkinShop.com, get questions from individuals several times a day on skin concerns they have and with the plethora of products available, they are not sure what they should use. Here is one of THE most common questions we get, in one of our customers own words:

Hi Carey:

I have placed several orders with you in past and always trust your professional opinion when it comes to my skin.  As you know, I have had concerns about the lines I am seeing around my eyes and how dull my skin looks lately and the products you recommended have really made a difference. Now I am noticing a spot under my left eye that is getting darker. It is summer and I have been spending a lot of time out in my garden so I think that is why is seems darker. What would you recommend to fade, or even better remove, this spot?

Cheers, Barb (we removed her last name for privacy purposes). 

Well, this is a very common question we get from many of our clients. There are several options available so we will explore each of them. 

Brown spots on the skin are usually from sun damage over time or from a wound that has healed leaving a brown spot behind that never goes away (this is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) most prevalent in skin that naturally has more melanin.

The most effective ingredient on the market for lightening pigmentation is hydroquinone. You can find hydroquinone in 2% (OTC) and 4% (Rx) strength. Obviously, the higher percentage of active ingredient, the faster the results. Hydroquinone is the only FDA approved skin lightening agent available however many other ingredients have been found to help fade spots but they usually take longer to work. 

If skin is sensitive, we recommend using non-hydroquinone based skin lightening agents. Ingredients such as kojic acid, licorice extract, niacinamide, bearberry extract, mulberry extract, l-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).

Some clients don't want to lighten out a brown spot but would prefer to have it removed. Removal of brown spots must be done in a clinical setting using IPL (intense pulse light) or high frequency (LAM Probe or Skin Classic). Usually high frequency is more cost effective overall.

 

 

To Exfoliate or Not to Exfoliate...that is the Question?

The Importance Of Skin Exfoliation

What Type of Exfoliator Should You Choose? 
There are different types of exfoliation. Natural, Physical (also known as Manual) and Chemical exfoliation? Learn the differences and why exfoliation is necessary.

What Is Skin Exfoliation?

Exfoliation is defined as the removal of surface dead skin cells by natural, chemical or manual means.

Why Is Exfoliation Important?

Exfoliation is considered one of the most important routines that you can perform on your skin to resolve certain skin problems as well as to achieve healthy and glowing skin. As skin ages, the natural exfoliation process slows down significantly. This is part of the reason why skin appears dull, pores appear larger and lines around the mouth, eyes and on the forehead appear more pronounced.

What Skin Care Problems Does Exfoliation Resolve?

Blemished skin

Exfoliation should be the main focus of a homecare program. So often, we are told to dry out the skin with harsh acne products. Although this will destroy acne-causing bacteria, it tends to dry out the skin, and this usually results in not only irritated skin but also in future breakouts. Why? Because as you over-dry the skin, you create surface dry skin cell buildup. This then acts as a barrier to trap oil in the skin, thereby starting a cycle of new breakouts. A Renée Rouleau skin care professional can determine how to handle problem skin situations.

Post-breakout red/dark marks

Often, the real concern is not so much the actual blemishes, but rather the red, dark marks that remain on the skin long after the breakout has healed. The key to fading those post-breakout marks is to increase your exfoliation. The more you remove the surface damaged skin tissue, the more you are ridding the skin of the dark marks and encouraging the formation of new healthy (non-scarred) skin tissue. The result is more even-toned skin with less scarring. See PCA Skin Pigment Bar to fade stubborn acne scars.

Clogged pores

Clogged pores aren't infected blemishes, but rather blackheads, small whiteheads, and little clogged bumps on the skin, often on the forehead. The same rules apply as with blemished skins. The more you remove surface dry skin cells (usually caused by using harsh, drying products), the less oil will stay trapped and congested in the pores.

Hyperpigmentation

These are the brown spots that come from age, pregnancy, hormonal changes, and genetics. These spots tend to become more apparent and darker as the skin ages. Exfoliation is beneficial for breaking up the pigmented cells to allow them to fade. Combined with a skin lightening agent, such as Vitamin C (found in our Vitamin C & E Treatment) or Hydroquinone (available OTC or by prescription), exfoliation will help accelerate the fading process.

Dry skin

Especially in the winter, exfoliation is very important. So often when the skin is dry, we tend to load up on heavier creams to compensate for the dryness. But dry skin means you have dry skin cell buildup. And the more you layer on the heavier creams, the more you are trying to re-hydrate dry dead skin cells, which makes no sense! Instead, increase your exfoliation to remove the dry skin cells, and then moisturize the new skin cells, resulting in a moister skin.

Use Sesha Renew Exfoliating Gel to brighten up dull and tired skin.

Those who desire smoother skin

One way to instantly smooth the skin is to exfoliate! When you rid the skin of the surface dry skin cells, you create a smoother appearance.

Those concerned about anti-aging

The skin's natural exfoliation process slows as the skin ages, resulting in an accumulation of dry skin cells. As you increase your exfoliation, you are tricking the skin into acting young again.

There are two types of exfoliants. First, a "chemical" or "acid" exfoliant does the work for you. You apply it, leave it on the skin, and it works to dissolve the dry skin cells. These exfoliants include ingredients such as Glycolic Acid (most aggressive AHA), Lactic Acid (better for lighter exfoliation), Malic Acid, BHA (salicylic acid) which is excellent for skin that breaks out or is oily and enzymes such as Pumpkin, Papaya, and Pineapple which is perfect for teen skin and sensitive skin.
Some examples of Medical Grade products containing Glycolic Acid are Glytone Rejuvenating Lotion 1, 2, and 3 with varying strengths of exfoliator which are excellent choices for mature skin, smokers, ex-smokers and non-sensitive skin, and Sircuit Skin Youth Accelerator or gloTherapeutics Pumpkin Enzyme Scrub which are great for sensitive skin or first time users of exfoliators that are not sure what skin type they have.
Second, a "physical" exfoliant means that you to do the work manually. These exfoliants include facial brushes and facial scrubs. Some examples of physical exfoliants are NIA 24 Physical Cleansing Scrub,  Blinc resurf.a.stic face or Sircuit Skin sir activ Zeolite Purifyng Scrub.

For sensitive skin, we suggest using the enzymes instead of the acids, as these tend to be gentler on delicate skins.
For severely sun damaged skin, a Medical Grade Retinol combined with use of an exfoliator, manual or chemical, is effective because it accelerates cell turnover more deeply in the skin repairing cell function and improving the skin's overall tone.
To find out which exfoliants are best for your skin, choose from our skin condition exfoliating skincare list.

How Does A Person Know If They Are Getting Too Much Exfoliation?

If you use a facial scrub and your skin turns bright red and feels irritated afterwards, it probably means that the grains used in the scrub are too aggressive or you may be using too much pressure when cleansing. We suggest avoiding over-the-counter scrubs that use apricot pits, walnut shells and the like. These grains have sharp edges that can lacerate the skin causing more harm than good. Look for micro-beads, as they will roll across the skin and do not cause irritation or rice based scrubs that are more gentle and keep the pressure light to moderate. Some facial scrubs to consider use only the gentlest form of grains, so as not to be irritating. If you are using chemical exfoliants and your skin starts to dry out, you may be removing too much of the skin's protective barrier, letting out much-needed moisture. Decrease use to every other day or every third day until the skin acclimates. If excessive redness or irritation occurs, discontinue use and consider an exfoliator that is not as strong.

Which Professional Exfoliating Treatments Are Beneficial?

Many skin care spas, including Radiant Skin Clinic in Mendon, NY offer microdermabrasion, mini-brasion (a gentler form of microdermabrasion), ultrasonic exfoliation, chemical peels, and enzyme peels to give your skin a more intensive exfoliation than you can do at home. A licensed Aesthetician (a skin care professional) can help provide you with recommendations on products that are best suited for your skin needs.

The Bottom Line

The goal with your skin is to exfoliate as much as possible; with minimal irritation. Lightly exfoliating the skin with a physical scrub each day (with minimal pressure) prior to applying treatment products also provides better penetration therefore better results!